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La Paz Batchoy

La Paz Batchoy Recipe

Jeff SmithRecipe Author

What Is La Paz Batchoy?

La Paz Batchoy is one of the Philippines’ most iconic noodle soups, originating in the La Paz public market in Iloilo City in the Visayas region of the Philippines. Created in the 1930s by a Chinese-Filipino vendor named Federico Guillergan Sr., La Paz Batchoy was initially sold as a street food that combined Chinese noodle soup techniques with Filipino pork offal and shrimp paste flavors. Today, it is considered one of the defining dishes of Ilonggo cuisine and is synonymous with Iloilo City itself, drawing food tourists from across the Philippines and internationally to the original market stalls where it has been served for nearly a century. The dish features fresh round egg noodles or bihon submerged in a deeply savory, rich pork-and-chicken broth that has been seasoned with guinamos — a potent Visayan shrimp paste — along with fish sauce and black pepper. The broth is topped with combinations of pork strips, beef, pork liver, and intestines, then finished with the dish’s most distinctive elements: mountains of crushed chicharon (pork cracklings) and heaps of crispy fried garlic. The layering of these garnishes is not merely decorative — the chicharon slowly softens in the hot broth, releasing additional pork fat and flavor, while the fried garlic adds a nutty, aromatic counterpoint. What elevates La Paz Batchoy above other Filipino noodle soups is the complexity and depth of its broth, built from long-simmered bones and flavored with the unique funk of guinamos. Each spoonful delivers multiple layers of flavor simultaneously: savory, smoky, slightly fermented, rich, and deeply warming.

Ingredient Notes

  • Guinamos (Visayan Shrimp Paste) Guinamos is the Visayan version of fermented shrimp paste and the secret ingredient that gives La Paz Batchoy its irreplaceable depth of flavor. It has a more pungent, funkier character than bagoong alamang from Luzon. Look for it in Filipino specialty stores or use regular bagoong as a close substitute.
  • Fresh Round Egg Noodles: Authentic La Paz Batchoy uses fresh, round egg noodles that have a chewy, slightly eggy character. Pre-packaged fresh noodles from Asian grocery stores are ideal; avoid thin rice vermicelli, which absorbs the broth too quickly and loses its texture within minutes.
  • Chicharon: Chicharon is not a garnish in La Paz Batchoy — it is a structural component. Use large, airy pieces of pork crackling that will soften slowly in the broth rather than immediately dissolving. The best batchoy chicharon has thick, airy bubbles rather than dense, hard sheets.

Ingredient Suggestions

  1. Raw Egg — A raw egg cracked into the hot bowl of batchoy creates silky egg ribbons — the original and most authentic serving style at La Paz market stalls.
  2. Pork Kidney — Add thinly sliced pork kidney for an additional offal depth that is traditional in premium batchoy preparations.
  3. Bone Marrow — Include a short section of beef shin bone per bowl for the ultra-rich bone marrow that melts into the broth.
  4. Extra Guinamos on the Side — Serve additional guinamos on the side for diners who want to intensify the fermented shrimp paste flavor of their bowl.

Helpful Tips & Pro Tips

  • The quality of La Paz Batchoy is almost entirely determined by the quality of its broth. Invest the full one to two hours in simmering the bones properly and do not use shortcuts like bouillon cubes alone. A rich, gelatinous broth that jiggles when cold is the mark of a properly made batchoy base.
  • Crush the chicharon just before serving, not in advance. Pre-crushed chicharon loses its airy structure quickly and becomes powdery rather than maintaining the desirable irregular, chunky texture. Crush each portion by hand directly into the bowl just before serving.
  • The fried garlic is best made in large batches since it stores well and the process takes time. Thin, even slices fried slowly at medium-low heat produce the golden, crispy, nutty result that defines authentic batchoy — thick slices or high heat creates bitter, unevenly cooked garlic.
  • Why does my La Paz Batchoy broth lack depth? Insufficient bones and too-short simmering time are the most common culprits. Use at least one kilogram of mixed bones per two liters of water and simmer for a minimum of ninety minutes. Adding a tablespoon more guinamos and fish sauce can also deepen a broth that tastes flat.

How to Serve and Store

La Paz Batchoy must be served immediately after assembly — the chicharon begins softening after about five minutes in the hot broth, and the noodles continue absorbing liquid, so any delay results in a very different textural experience. Each component — noodles, meats, broth, and garnishes — should be at their optimal state simultaneously. Store leftover broth and meats separately in the refrigerator for up to three days. Reheat the broth to a strong simmer before reassembling with freshly cooked noodles and new garnishes. The broth can be frozen for up to two months.

Substitutions

  • Guinamos → Regular bagoong alamang — Luzon shrimp paste is a passable substitute, though La Paz Batchoy purists will insist the flavor difference is significant.
  • Pork intestines → Pork shoulder — For a more accessible version without offal, thick-cut pork shoulder slices provide meatiness without the cleaning process.
  • Fresh egg noodles → Dry ramen noodles — Dry ramen provides a similar chewiness; cook one minute less than package instructions to account for carryover cooking in the hot broth.
  • Beef slices → Chicken breast — For a lighter protein option, poached and shredded chicken breast works well in the flavorful broth.
  • Chicharon → Fried wonton strips — Provides a similar initial crunch for a non-pork version of the garnish.
  • Fish sauce → Coconut aminos — For those reducing sodium, coconut aminos provides some umami depth at a lower salt level.

Suggested Recipes

  1. Batchoy Tagalog — The Luzon cousin to La Paz Batchoy, a clear pork soup without noodles that shares the offal tradition.
  2. Lomi Batangas — Another thick, hearty Filipino noodle soup with pork and eggs that represents the same comfort-food tradition.
  3. KBL (Kadyos, Baboy, Langka) — An iconic Ilonggo soup made with pigeon peas, pork, and jackfruit that showcases the same regional Visayan cuisine.
  4. Pancit Molo — An Ilonggo dumpling soup that is another point of pride in Iloilo’s rich culinary heritage.